Thursday, May 23, 2013

Montana Wild

As I was making breakfast this morning for my kids and preparing to go to work, I heard my phone buzz and then see this text and picture from one of our long-time guides, Jen...
"Boating anyone?"
I laugh because it is the end of May and today we woke up to snow.
I laugh because my boss just bought flowers yesterday and said the words "it's not supposed to freeze."
I laugh because a couple of days ago I was sitting by the river and thinking that I should have worn sunscreen.
I laugh because spring is such a trickster season, making us think that summer is here 
and then I laugh because I think that 
no one in his or her right mind would be tempted to respond to that text.
Me, sitting in the warmth of the sun just a few days ago.
But I did not get the last laugh this morning as I pulled into work to see the handful of guides that responded to that text, excited to get out on the river.  
That is love.
Love for the river, for work, for Montana living and the love of new adventures.
Like our guide Keith likes to say,
"Not everyday can be like the brochure."
And that's what makes it all so marvelous.

Thursday, May 9, 2013

Spring Activities in Glacier National Park



Are you thinking about coming to Glacier this spring, but not sure what to do?  The park is open and it's a great time to explore as the snow melts, rivers flow and everything starts to turn green.  Spring is also a good time to get some great deals on lodging because most places offer discounted rates.
Here are a few ideas of things to do...
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Lake McDonald Valley

  • Go rafting.  Most rafting companies start offering scenic and whitewater trips in the beginning of May.  LOCAL TIP: Reservations are recommended because in early spring, some launches don't go out if there are not enough people signed up.
    Spring runoff on the Middle Fork.
  • Bike/walk the Going to the Sun road.  Take advantage of the fact that the road is closed to vehicles and enjoy this amazing corridor without cars.  LOCAL TIP: Always keep your distance from wildlife, bring bear spray and check the hiker/ biker status of the Going to the Sun road before you leave.
Seeing wildlife is common in the spring on the GTTSR.  Photo by Becky Lomax.
  • Take a boat ride on the lake.  Glacier Park Boats start their DeSmet tours on May 25th.
  • Look for wildlife.  Go for a morning/evening drive along the Camas Road.  Drive and look around for your best chance of seeing bears, deer, coyote, moose or even mountain lion.  Please respect all wildlife by keeping your distance and remember that you must obey all traffic rules.  
  • Check out the historic Lake McDonald Lodge.  It opens for the season May 25th.
  • Take a trail ride.  The Apgar corral opens May 25th and the Lake McDonald corral opens June 1st for trail rides.
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North Fork Valley
  • Bike or walk the Inner North Fork road.  Choose from a ride from Fish Creek to Polebridge, or ride into Bowman or Kintla Lake.  This is great pre-season, when the roads are closed to vehicles.  Please note that these roads are dirt.
  • Eat baked goods!  Cookies, bear claws, sandwiches, bread...the Polebridge Mercantile opens for the season on April 26th and it's a great addition to a day up in the North Fork.  
  • Look for wildlife.  The meadows up in this valley are known for their deer and elk, but I've been lucky enough to see bear, coyote, moose and even wolf up there (again, please respect all wildlife).
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The Belly River
  • Go backpacking.  The Belly River Valley is by far one of the best places to go backpacking in Glacier in the early season.  The lower elevations are usually free of snow and the scenery is breathtaking.  You can easily spend a week in this waterfall, wildlife and flower filled valley. 
The Belly River in June 2012.
 LOCAL TIP:  Bring gaiters and good waterproof gear, because the trails in this area have been known to be marvelously muddy in the spring.
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St. Mary Valley
  • Bike/ walk the Going to the Sun road.  Similar to the west side of the park, the road is open part of the way up and then gated off to vehicles.   
  • Hike.  There are some great little trails that you can enjoy as the snow starts to melt.  Try the lake trail, St. Mary Falls or the Red Eagle trail.
St. Mary Falls.
  • Boat tours out of Rising Sun boat dock start on June 22nd.
  • Eat pie.  A favorite among locals for their pie, the Park Cafe opens May 20th.  
"Pie for Strength!"
LOCAL TIP:  If you have your heart set on a certain type of pie, order it before your meal to ensure that you get a piece.
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Many Glacier Valley
  • Take a boat ride.  Starting June 14th, the boat company will start running it's popular tours.  These rides are known for the chance of seeing wildlife.
  • Check out and stay at the Historic Many Glacier Hotel.  It opens for the season on June 12th.
  • Hike.  The upper section of most trails will definitely have snow, but the lower elevations are usually spectacular with flowers.  LOCAL TIP:  If you are used to walking on snow, you will be able to get higher on the trail (I have been up to Iceberg many times in the spring).  However, the Grinnell Glacier trail is usually closed by the Park Service about half way up until the avalanche chutes are melted out.  
The Iceberg Lake trail in June.  
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Two Medicine

  • Eat Mexican food!  No adventure in Two Medicine is complete without a trip to Serrano's in East Glacier.  They officially open May 1st...but expect a wait; it's very popular.  Not to worry though, they let you drink margaritas on the porch.
  • Visit the lobby and gardens of the historic Glacier Park Lodge.  It opens for the season May 28th.
The gardens may not be this full in early spring, but the lodge lobby makes it worth the visit.
  • Have a picnic at Running Eagle Falls.  The short trail can have a bit of snow on it, but the rocky shores of the river are a great, sunny place to picnic when it's good weather.  Perfect for those with small children since there are tons of rocks to throw into the river.
Picnic at Running Eagle Falls on Mother's Day 2012.
  • Take a boat ride.  The historic boat rides on the Sinopah start on June 8th.  
  • Hike (although this valley is one of the last to have the snow melt).  The first two thirds of the Scenic Point trail is a great spot since most of the snow will probably be gone from this aspect, and the views are amazing.
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Cutbank Valley 
  • Go camping.  Get away from the crowds in this little known valley.  There will probably be snow on the higher sections of trail, but the meadows can be fantastic for spring flowers.
The road into the Cutbank Valley.

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So don't be discouraged if you see that the Going to the Sun Road is not fully open yet, because the park is open, ready for a beautiful experience.  As we always say, "You won't know if you don't go!"

Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Glacier National Park with Kids


What better way to spend time with you kids than to have an "out of car experience"?
This blog is for all my fellow parents out there that want to share the magic of Glacier with their kids, but need a few ideas on what to do.
In no particular order here's my top 10...

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This program is put on by the Park Service and is great because it can be done in conjunction with other activities (and the booklets can be done on a car ride or at camp).  Just pick up a program pamphlet from a park Visitor Center.  Once the activities in the packet are done, go back and a ranger will present your little one with an official looking badge they can take home with them.  Kids love that they have accomplished something...and get to talk to a ranger!

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Add some adventure into your vacation with a river trip!  There is nothing better on a warm day than to be on the water.  The view is always changing and it can be a great way to see some animals. Glacier National Park has two Wild and Scenic rivers that make up the southern and western border of the park.  The Middle Fork of the Flathead has both scenic floats (minimum age of 3) and whitewater trips (minimum age of 6).  Trips are out of West Glacier, Montana and companies have 1/2 day, full day and overnight trips.  Reservations are recommended.

Both scenic and whitewater trips are great for kids.
LOCAL TIP:  Avoid wearing cotton clothing since it does not keep you warm if it gets wet.  Wear shoes that you can get wet, but avoid flip-flops (they are a good way to get an ankle injury).  If you have glasses, invest in a strap so you don't lose them to the river.  Check out our packing list for rafting trips for more information.

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3. Hiking

Glacier is known for it's phenomenal hiking and where you should go will really depend on the age of your kiddos (and their enthusiasm).  Guided hikes, led by Glacier Guides or the Park Service, are always great options to make the most out your hike.  Kids (and adults) can learn a ton about the natural history, flora and fauna of the area while exploring the trail.
And remember, it's about the journey, not the destination.
If you have a small child, there are places to rent a child carrier
It's little things that make kids happy!
LOCAL TIP:  Glacier is home to many animals from big to small.  Please make sure your children are close by and within eyesight.  Explaining to them what to do if they see bigger animals (don't run and give them space) as well as not allowing them to feed smaller animals, will help both the wildlife and your children stay safe.  
Easy hikes are all over Glacier Park.
Easy Hikes on the Westside - Avalanche Lake, Huckleberry Nature Trail, John's Lake, Hidden Lake.  Easy Hikes on the Eastside - Paradise Point, Aster Park, Twin Falls and Upper Two Medicine Lake, St. Mary and Virginia Falls, Swiftcurrent Lake Nature Trail, Red Rock Lake.

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Taking your kids out on the water is great fun.  The 360 degree view is amazing from out there, and sometimes it gives your family a better chance to see animals (moose, bear, beavers, ducks) than from the shore.  Glacier Park Boat Company has both boat rentals and tour boat rides on several different lakes within the park.  Docks are located in Two Medicine, St. Mary, Many Glacier and on Lake McDonald.
Looking for boat rentals in the North Fork Valley?  North Fork Recreation Rentals offers river and lake kayaks, bikes and paddleboards in Polebridge.


Boat tours are a great way to shave some miles off a longer hike,
or to just spend some time on the water.  Photo by Tyrel Johnson.
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So many people think of horses when they think of Montana (I think that "The Horse Whisperer" has something to do with that).  Swan Mountain Outfitters is the only business that offers horseback rides in the park.  They offer rides lasting from 2 to 7 hours.  Minimum age is 7.  There are also trips that combine horseback riding and rafting ("saddle and paddle").
Ride to Cracker Lake. Photo from Swan Mountain Outfitters.
LOCAL TIP: Wear long pants, sturdy shoes, weather protection and bug spray!

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6. Car Camping

For the adventurous (and motivated) parents...there's camping.  I have to say that this is one of my kid's favorite things to do.  They love eating outside, roasting marshmallows on an open fire and jumping into their sleeping bags at night.  There are campgrounds inside the park (great views and usually by lakes or rivers, but have very minimal amenities) and several outside the park (usually in the woods and have extra amenities like showers, restaurants and sometimes even pools!).  I will not sugar coat it though...it takes a lot of preparation.  Having a list and being prepared for anything is imperative.
Here are a handful of things (beyond the basics) that you may want to bring:
- Tarp to hang over eating area (for rain or sun).  Freestanding tarps are best so you don't have to rely on having trees around to hang them.
- Headlamps and a lantern (the battery operated ones are the best for kids).
- Cards, games, magnifying glass, etc...to keep them occupied while you set up camp or make dinner.
I found a magnetic dart game that we all love to play.
- Camp chairs (picnic tables are provided at each site, but are not very comfortable for long).
- Firewood and s'mores fixin's.
For those people looking to backpack with their children, I recommend making sure that your kids are very comfortable with car camping first.  Custom guided hikes can be a great way to take the stress out of planning an overnight trip.

LOCAL TIPS:  Only a few of the park campgrounds take reservations, the rest are first come - first serve.  Also, most have a generator free area.  This is great for those without RV's.  I do recommend that the children be potty trained for sleeping in a tent.  Glacier is bear habitat and diapers can be an attractant.  For those with infants (or kids that aren't potty trained), you may opt for a hard sided camper (or a cabin).  If you want to backpack, you must have a permit for all backcountry campgrounds.
*Don't have the gear?  There are places that you can rent camping equipment.

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7. Stargazing

Glacier is known for it's spectacular vistas, but the views are sometimes even more amazing once the sun goes down.  The park has several "night sky" programs throughout the summer.  Maybe you'll even be lucky enough to see the northern lights!

Photo by Brian Sorg Photography
LOCAL TIP:  It does not get dark until very late in the summer months.  Make sure your kids take naps so that they don't have a meltdown by the time the stars finally come out!

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8. Lake/River Time

My kids could just sit and throw rocks into the water all day.
I don't know about everyone else's family, but I know that my kids love to play in the water!  Whether it is splashing around (swimming can be tough in our cold waters) or skipping rocks.  What kid doesn't like to throw rocks?  Grab some food and plan a picnic.
Fishing is also a great past time for families in the park.  There are guided fishing trips on the river, or pick up a brochure about fishing policies inside Glacier (no permit required) at the park entrances.
Photo by Glacier National Park.
LOCAL TIP: The head of Lake McDonald and Dollar beach on St. Mary has perfect skipping rocks.

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Many people enjoy riding bicycles in Glacier.  For the experienced, the Going-to-the-Sun road is the most unique rides.  There are some restrictions on when you can ride the road in the middle of the summer because of how busy the road becomes mid-day.  If you are looking for something short, the bike path from Apgar to park headquarters is nice.  No bikes are allowed on trails within the park, although Waterton Park does allow them in selected areas.
Bicycle Rentals can be found at the Tamarack Lodge (Coram), North Fork Recreation Rentals (Polebridge), Great Northern Cycles and Glacier Cyclery (Whitefish).
Riding on the Inner North Fork Road.
LOCAL TIP:  In springtime, many locals love to bike along roads that have not been open yet to vehicles (Inner North Fork, Going to the Sun, Bowman).

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There is a reason why bears love huckleberries...because they are so tastey!!  In August (and sometimes in to September) picking huckleberries can be a fabulous way to spend some time with kids.  Save one, eat two, save one, eat two....You can pick up to one gallon of huckleberries per person (Park Service policies).
It's great when you find a good patch!
LOCAL TIP: There are lots of berries that are edible in the park (huckleberries, serviceberries, strawberries, raspberries), and there are lots that are not.  Make sure they can identify what they are eating and have them check with you before they eat anything new.  Also, make sure you are always keeping your eyes, ears and nose open for animals!

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Random Advice:

- It's all about the journey, not the destination.  It's okay if you don't get very far, as long as they enjoy being out there.
- Make sure they are comfortable.  I find that my kids are much happier when they are warm enough, fed enough, not thirsty or cold and don't have sun in their eyes, etc...
- Be cautious with children around water.  Creeks are cold and often fast flowing.  Not to be a "Debbie Downer", but drowning is the number one cause of death in the park.  The park cannot put signs and railings in all places with water hazards, so it is up to you to keep your child safe.
- Share with them the rules of the woods.  Get the kids learning at an early age by teaching them Leave No Trace Principles, water safety and how to be "Animal Aware".
- Bring an extra set of clothes and shoes for afterwards.  You'll be happy you did.
Fun usually involves dirt and water!
Since the weather can change at any moment, please remember these things for your children on any outdoor excursion:

- raingear
- extra layer and hat for warmth


- food and water








- sunscreen and sunglasses
- bug spray (the all natural kind, so your kid doesn't grow a third arm).
- garbage bag for trash (diapers)

Optional: binoculars, magnifying glass, Junior Ranger program booklet.


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There it is...my two cents.  
I love Glacier, and I love experiencing the park with my children.  
I hope that this list helps you to do the same.  

PS.  It's worth the extra effort...the memories are priceless!

Wednesday, March 13, 2013

Celebrating 30 years of Glacier Guides


"The best summers of my life."
If I had a nickel for every time I heard this phrase mixed into
conversation throughout the weekend, I could buy a pie of every
kind from the Park Cafe (yum!).
Last summer we held a 30-year reunion party and we were
lucky enough to have over 150 past and current employees gather
together to celebrate with us.
About this time last year, we stretched our networking arms out
to as many former employees as possible to invite them to the
reunion. With a weekend full of activities, we hoped to lure as
many old friends back as possible.
As the weekend began to draw near, people started trickling in
with their loved ones. A certain energy buzzed about the place, and
smiles were contagious.
Luckily, the weather cooperated and the sun shone on our
gathering.
Here's a little taste of how the weekend went...

GROUP HIKE TO GRANITE PARK CHALET
Seems strange right?
Melissa Scott, Stacey Bengtson, Christianna Scweitzer, Kjell Petersen, Kelly Hoffman
in front of the Chalet.
All smiles in the sunshine.
The chalet with Heaven's Peak shining in the backround.

Great view of Granite Park Chalet (on the right) from the Highline Trail.
WHITEWATER TRIP
Captain Keith Meehan and Bryan Melling.
Psyched up for some whitewater!
Our fearless leader (and co-founder).
Making sure everyone has a paddle.
New and old faces in this good lookin' crowd.
Courtney Moch is super slick in this ensemble.
Rebecca Powell, Kiandra Waggoner, and I.
Mike Davies, Monica and Steve Haas, Andy Burbine, Jon Peterson, Mike Foote
Almost to the whitewater section.
Emily enjoying some vitamin D.
Captain Jay Burrell (AKA Fuzzy Bunny).
Jake Muniak, Alex Van Horn,  Chris Johnson (and wife), Kim and Russ Schneider and Captain Chris Ruffatto.
Kerin Gayner, Caroline Heidt, JW (and family), Demi Sullivan, Teal (captain) and Natalie Gayner
Mike Block, Captain Bill Brown, Tammy and family.
Woohoo!
Captain Kiandra Waggoner, Jen Acacia Mittelstadt, Corrie Holloway, Bill Hartman, Courtney Moch (and family), Rebecca Powell, Seth Settles
PARTY BARGE:  Scott and Eric Boyd, Corbon Seargent, Katie Duncan, Clay Springmeyer, Valerie Dawson, Sarah Edwards, Veronica Magstadt, Mike Foote, Bryan Melling, Keith Meehan, Sarah Metzger, Julie Rydall, Monica Haas
Steve Haas, Mike Davies, Andy Burbine and friends.
KT

Jen Acacia going for a leisurely dip in the Middle Fork.
A locals favorite...jumping off the old bridge.
What a great day on the river.
I, eye Captain!
Seth rockin' the purple wetsuit.
THE GUIDES GALA
Randy Gayner and John Gray....yes we love the matching GWG shirts.

Melissa Scott and Brendon Beatty.
Paul Brinkerhoff and friend.
Betsy Gibson (w/ Jorie) and Rebecca Powell.
Monica and Steve Haas, Denny and little Marin.
The future generation of guides.
A very pensive (or confused?) Andrew Hollensteiner.
Stacey Bengtson, Tricia Michlik Taylor, and I.
No guide party is complete without a little volleyball!
Teal Gayner, Ben Wolff, Drew Napier, Vince Robitchek, Kevin Melling, Kerin Gayner and Louie Grisez.
Peggy Dees and I.
Long time guide, Carolyn Beecher, with some strong young gals.
Denny and Luca.
Does Henry have a CDL?
Christianna, one of our great former office staff!  
Jan, one of the only people who knows that... "costumes are always encouraged" here!
The illustrious crew!
After a weekend of recounting legendary guiding tales (including,
but not limited to, stories of bears, wild weather, heavy packs,
famous guests and super-pasta), we felt the strained muscles from
 laughing too hard. Our hearts (and glasses) were full. There are so many reasons why we have loved
working here over the years, but after reuniting with this group it is
obvious that people play the biggest part.
Thank you to everyone who has made the past 30 seasons
possible...and here's to 30 more!